Engine heat doesn’t make much difference with these noises, and a low oil pressure light is a dead giveaway. This story evolved from being about choosing the right mechanic to tackle fixes, because identifying what's wrong with your bike before you get the mechanic will help you pick the right one. Although the main things have been checked, filter, carb, etc but all seem fine and still no luck in getting her to stay going. See if it wont kill your bike. You close the throttle and pull the clutch - and then the engine dies. Try running some sea foam through your carbs. Another sign of lean running is the “hunting idle” where the motorcycle revs up randomly, changes RPMs, or takes forever to come down to idle. This makes it VERY hard to work on my wheelies! It’s a sinking feeling when you give more gas but the bike sputters out and dies anyway. 2-wheel enthusiasts who can agree on nothing except for entry level SV650s and lane splitting. Used carburetors that have been sitting might have gotten plugged up with gunk. Motorcycle extremely jerky/jumpy when given any throttle I've gotten my first motorcycle in February, a Yamaha XVS250. Is your kickstand down when you put the bike into first gear ? The throttle cable normally lets you know it’s going bad by refusing to snap back the throttle grip when it is turned and released. That will most likely be your culprit. Either way the solution is the same. I was so happy to hear her running again so i let it warm up so i could take it out, but as soon as i gave it any throttle, it dies out. You start bike and immediately drive off. If you’ve checked the petcock and don’t have a fuel pump issue – heck, even if you do – give the tank a shake so any gas stuck in the sides of the tank is pushed towards the rear and the fuel petcock. On a bike without hydraulic lifters, you need a tune-up. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. WRONG! Honda. Extremely lean motors can also stall out completely when given some light throttle. I got her all together and fired her up. It seems transmissions can be shifted quietly or quickly, but physics gets in the way of making it do both. Most filters are clear and if the dark part has liquid in it, it probably works. Pipes are black inside and black is coming out. After this happens, i have to let it sit for about 15-20 minutes before it will start up again. The gas can’t flow out. and it dies when I let off of the throttle. My motorcycle idles fine, but when i give it throttle, it dies. The real thing to look for in all engines are a marked “rattle up” or “rattle down” noises that follow the throttle. Don’t be fooled into thinking it’s the transmission just because the sound goes away most the time when the bike is put into gear or revved. Up until very recently, most bikes have had at least two cables that can go bad and cause headaches: the throttle, and clutch cables. There was a slight leak at the vacuum hose ports (for synchronizing). Are you using your old carbs or did the used engine come with them? I think the reason is the engine is still cold and the fuel does not atomize properly. only 2000 miles It's much worse to walk away from a basket case bike, or to not walk away at all, because of an overlooked mechanical fault. The best thing you can do for your transmission is to always make the full shift – gears are mostly damaged by half shifts. The pilot serves as a gradual step as the circuits trade off from the tiny idle circuit to the relatively large main. I have a 99' Prairie 300 that dies when it is given throttle. Pull the jets and clean them til you can see perfectly through them. 125cc 2 stroke dies when opening throttle. If there is a spark, check the plug gaps. Some of the connectors are easy to find – for example, the electrical thing plugged into you kickstand is the kickstand switch – but others may be really elusive without a schematic. Throttle cable adjustment is fine-not too loose, not too tight. Thanks! If there are repairs to be done, ask the expert what these repairs will cost. Valve issues, on the other hand, tend to “suck.” No, literally! Working in this 1980 Honda cb 750. I doesn't do it if I let go if the throttle when it starts to stall, or if I twist the throttle open all the way slowly. The jet needle rests at the bottom of your CV piston valve. Rich bikes are getting too much gas, so they idle high but lose power when given initial throttle because they can’t burn all the gas. I have a 1995 Yamaha Blaster that will start up and idle but everytime I touch the throttle - whether it be a little or a lot - the RPM's drop rapidly and it will stall. A bog from idle is a lean condition not a rich condition ! i think im going through the same thing...i can only add that my bike WILL NOT idle unless choke is on a little less than 1/2 way...this is after riding around for 20-25 minutes too! It helps if it’s set to “ON.”. This is a classic and very obvious clogged pilot jet. But, as soon as I give it throttle in any of these positions, it dies. When you give it throttle it acts like it is chocking itself down and will die unless you let it come back to an idle. 1 Answer. For many of us, the only issues we’ll ever have with a bike are of our own making. After I let it warm up, I gave it some throttle and it dies on me. But, as soon as I give it throttle in any of these positions, it dies. It starts up on the first pull, idles perfectly fine in Neutral, High, and Reverse. I have put heet and foam in gas tank - put new plugs in and has not helped. While you can’t fix these you can diagnose them. It's easier to decide if it’s a little or big problem with transmission issues. Get your toolbox out: it’s time to lift the tank! Give slightly too much throttle, then shut throttle fast. My bike is sputtering whenever I give it full throttle The problem of having an engine “sputter” is typically caused by a fuel system issue. How long did they sit while you were getting the engine replaced ? When revving it in neutral you can hear it break up a bit right at 6000, after that it revs fine to redline. If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. The video posted above was taken just a few minutes after replacing the battery. But when I twist the throttle it stalls. If the engine you bought was jetted for a different elevation this could be the issue too. You can see when I start the bike up I was giving it a bit of throttle (trying to rev it up a little) and it just stayed at a constant RPM and then shot up for a second even though I wasn't moving on the throttle at that point. Anyone have any ideas? In this case you need to ensure you have spark. Camshaft (a big metal pole that opens the valves) chains sound like “ball bearings in a can” and rattle under the tank. If it starts, something is wrong with the starter system. I have a 2006 yz250f that has sat since 2009. The best thing to do is use a purpose-made cable lube attachment, available at your local powersports store. No matter if you have EFI or carbs, a Harley-Davidson or a Honda, here is a list of five common problems and triage steps you can take to diagnose the nature of a mechanical issue. The three main causes of cable woes are wrong routing – it's too short after changing handlebars or crashing and, most often, not properly maintained. If you can make it through the bog and then it suddenly roars to life, that's also a really big confirmation as well. Make sure the battery can still turn the engine; if it can’t, you most likely have a charging or battery issue and need to call your roadside service provider (be it a professional company or your good ol' Uncle Dirk). Engine Issues: Bike Dies when given throttle? The way carbs work is there are three different "circuits" for fuel: idle, pilot, main. Some context: I have already drained the cheap gas and replaced with non-ethanol premium. and its been running better than ever. Any help would be great. EFI bikes also all have a handy “self-diagnostic mode” which will flash out a numeric code through the gauges. I think the reason is the engine is still cold and the fuel does not atomize properly. I'd put money on it, that you've damaged either the stator winding or more possibly the ckps (crankshaft position sensor) a failed tps wouldn't give your symptoms, they are for accurate throttle response, not major engine interference, also, a … The jet needle goes into your throttle. A while back I had this same problem - riding the bike just fine, came to a stop light, and when I tried to pull away and give it some gas, it bogged down and barely sputtered along. Never ride such a bike – they call that a “suicide throttle” for a reason. I've cleaned the carb very thoroughly! I also check to make sure any vacuum lines on the petcock are attached to the carbs, as fuel won’t flow without that. Problem is, it has a major dead spot right at 6000. Twisting it around your arm or a wide pole to separate the wire from its sheath. Cookies help us deliver our Services. If your battery is OK, but nothing happens when you hit start there are a few things to check. Cam chain rattles need to go to the mechanic but are normally not horribly costly to fix. I have a 99' Prairie 300 that dies when it is given throttle. It seems to stay going for a short period of time in idle but no further than that. So far it has been a great little bike with no issues, I got it serviced around 3 weeks ago, new sparks, oil and air filters, oil change etc. I had the same happen. Extremely lean motors can also stall out completely when given some light throttle. A rod, piston or serious knock is not subtle and you can change the noise by manipulating the throttle. If it clicks more than four times, it’s likely being starved by a jammed filter, a kinked line, or it's going bad. Fixed that. Still, in a real pinch, a cable that has recently stuck can, most times, be salvaged by: I’ve even seen people create makeshift funnels out of Silly Putty and soak the cable overnight in liquid wrench on the way to Sturgis with OK results. Then check you didn’t accidentally hit the kill switch. What really happens is that it moves less and less inside the sheath and eventually the cable and sheath as a whole start to fuse into one nasty mass that overpowers the return spring. It’s also a wise idea to get in the habit of checking now and again to see that your throttle isn’t affected when you turn the handlebars completely from side to side. Replaced the gaskets at the intake manifold. Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 14 of 14 Posts. Original article published January 01, 2018, Recall: Honda Africa Twin Could Stall Due To Clogged Fuel Filter, Here's A Brief History Of Triumph Motorcycles In Under 3 Minutes, Ducati Introduces New Smart Airbag Jacket, EICMA Motorcycle Show Gets New November 2021 Dates, Fantic Updates Caballero 125 And 500 To Meet Euro 5 Standards. Whatever you do, do not yank it! Everything on it is stock. I love my Z50R! I have a 1982 Nighthawk 650 that idles but whenever I give it any throttle it dies. First, ensure the battery is good and that the engine turns over. You will raise and lower the needle by changing the clip position on the jet needle. Not a light job. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the motorcycles community. If the battery is OK, these are the steps to take: First, make sure there is gas in the tank and the petcock is set to On, Reserve, or Prime. Motorcycle Mechanic: Christopher , Motorcycle Mechanic replied 5 years ago Lastly, confirm that the fuel is being supplied like it is supposed to by checking everything in the “Running on Empty” section above. I helped out a very embarrassed young man the other day and the issue was pretty obvious and covered by our basic motorcycle safety courses in California. It seems as soon as I pull the throttle the engine dies.. Naturally, the first thing you want to do is get safely out of the roadway. I … sounds like the main jets in the carbs aren't give you fuel, maby give them a clean and try again. The bike hasnt been running to my knowledge for 4-5 months. Fixed that. G ... 25 Posts . Sometimes the engine just spins and you’ve already checked the fuel system like we’ve outlined above. You should feel the pump “click” as it primes. If all else fails you can try riding without the clutch. If you can make it through the bog and then it suddenly roars to life, that's also a really big confirmation as well. - Answered by a verified Motorcycle Mechanic. On newer, emissions-controlled motorcycles, I see a lot of cases where the bike runs out of power and stalls. Try starting with the kickstand up, clutch in, and bike in neutral to see if the motor spins. It starts without a problem and idles fine, but as soon as I give it a little throttle it spits and sputters and even back fires. I have put heet and foam in gas tank - put new plugs in and has not helped. It seems as soon as I pull the throttle the engine dies.. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. The pilot jet controls idle, jet needle controls throttle from 1/4 to 3/4 of maximum throttle, and the main jet controls throttle from 3/4 to full throttle. A key clue is that the issue gets better as the bike warms up. But if the transmission “sputters,” rattles or pulses as you put it in or out of gear it’s normally just the clutch. If not, these switches can normally be bypassed with a paperclip pressed into both ends of the connector one at a time, MacGyver-style. Make sure the battery's black ground cable is solidly connected to both the battery and grounding point on the engine (that is where the big black battery cable connects to the engine) and that the fuses on the main switch (connected to the big red battery cable in most cases) are good. You have to actually look. First, start simple and look for a loose or open vacuum hose. TPS sees fuel going in and compensates, but compensates for nothing. Even if you can’t fix it, you don’t have to blindly trust your hard-earned cash to the honesty of the nearest “reputable” mechanic. It ran fine last time the seller rode it from what I'm told. Riders with more modern motorcycles will have no idea what a petcock is, but it's worth making sure your bike isn't equipped with such a thing. For carburetors that suddenly show signs of being in a rich condition, gently whacking the bottom of the carbs to make sure the floats (tiny little pieces that control gas flow like the rubber piece in the back of your toilet) are free. Valves are also often the cause of black smoke. The only issue now is that when I turn the throttle too sharply the engine dies, it accelerates slightly but when the throttle is turned even slightly too much it dies. Keep in mind the real trick is to get the lube down into the outer shell so it can clean away grime. I'm using the carbs from the old engine. if you crack the throttle hard from idle on a smoker and it goes baooooor and dies it is lean, the motor sucks a huge gob full of air and dies, if you replaced the carb with say a 30mm item it would never happen However, when I give it throttle, it spits, stutters, coughs & dies. Check it for dry rotting/cracks. This is the answer. Hopefully this will stop you from being jammed up by something simple, and it may just get you to the nearest gas station. Ultimately, when it comes time to take it to the shop, give plenty of details and make sure you receive detailed information in return. Basically, shell start up fine and idle around 1500-2000 rpm (full choke) but upon going to 1/2 choke or giving her any throttle, she dies. Clutch switches, kickstand switches and the neutral light can all break to cause this type of problem. You need gas and spark to run any engine and good controls to use it. On older bikes, there are sometimes cases where the spark is escaping and coming out from a crack in the wiring. They would just be a bit clogged up. Pull the carb bowls off. Rotate the wire a quarter turn in both directions before you pull it to help prevent the connection from breaking. If that gunk is blocking the main jet and/or partially blocking the fuel flowing into the float bowl, that could cause the problem you are describing. The clutch cable is far sneakier and creeps into your perception as perceived clutch slippage. In a pinch, or if you don’t want a special tool you’ll hardly use, set the wire against the engine with a metal screwdriver and look for a blue flash. A no-start can seem like something impossible to fix except in the shop, but there are many problems that can be resolved with some detective work. My purchase the previous owner, a Yamaha XVS250, I have put heet and foam in gas -. 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